I found this lovely summer dessert in Simon Hopkinson's book, Roast Chicken and Other Stories. He credits finding the recipe in what he refers to as a "sadly forgotten book" entitled The Good Food Guide Dinner Party Book. The restaurant that served these Pots de Crème had been in this guide for many years: Sharrow Bay Hotel in the Lake district in England. Francis Coulson was the owner and chef.
Some background: Francis Coulson saw an old fisherman’s lodge dating back to 1840 advertised in the Manchester Guardian newspaper as "a mansion on the edge of Ullswater with 12 acres of grounds and formal gardens." It's said he arrived by train with his suitcase and a saucepan tied to the outside. He had very little cash, no experience and a great deal of faith. With the magnificent views of Lake Ullswater and its surrounding fells he felt that if he worked hard and with a bit of financial help from his father, he would probably be successful. (The only cooking experience for Francis I could discover were some pastry-making lessons from Renee Atkinson. They must have been pretty damn good lessons, because everyone loved the food and raved about his croissants and brioches as well as scones and cakes.)
Sharrow Bay Hotel opened in the spring of 1949 with five bedrooms and coined the phrase ‘country house hotel’ for the first time. In 1952 Francis (d. 1998) was joined by Brian Sack (d. 2002) who had trained at the Node Hotel and the two ran the hotel for the rest of their lives. Coulson was dedicated to his kitchen, championing British food and cooking, while Sack cosseted and entertained their many devotees. It is reputedly the place where sticky toffee pudding was invented in 1960. And, of course, where this recipe came from. Sharrow Bay was Egon Ronay Guide's Hotel of the Year in 1974, and Restaurant of the Year in 1980. Since 1967, Sharrow Bay has enjoyed membership in the Relais et Chateaux Association of small hotels. The hotel has been part of the Von Essen Hotels group since 2003 and won a star in the Michelin Guide in 2008.
This refreshing and pretty dessert is easy to make, light, not very sweet, served chilled and can be made a day ahead. Hopkinson suggests serving it with a touch of heavy whipping cream, not whipped, but "poured on top so that each time you take a spoonful, the cream fills up the hole." I know just what he meant.
Francis Coulson's Strawberry Pots de Crème
From Roast Chicken and Other Stories by Simon Hopkinson
Ingredients:
8 ounces strawberries, hulled
3 tablespoons sugar
4 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 tablespoons Cointreau
Method:
Preheat oven to 275. Puree the strawberries in a blender with the sugar and egg yolks. Strain through a find sieve, then stir in the cream and Cointreau. Mix well and pour into individual ramekins. Bake in a water bath for about 1 hour. Check towards the end. The custards should be just set and slightly wobbly in the center. They will continue cooking as they cool. When cooled, chill for at least 6 hours and serve with a little heavy cream poured on top.
You can make this with raspberries as well.
