5.12.2012

Mother's Prune Whip



Happy Mother's Day!

My mother made this dessert frequently when we were kids. She died about 12 years ago and I remember right up to the end, she loved her dish of stewed prunes. Every time I took her to the market, dried prunes were on her list. And as soon as we returned, they would be simmering on the stove. When I was a child, we had them often with lunch and to this day, I automatically think of stewed prunes when I have mac and cheese. She must have served them together frequently.  Always amusing how the things we had in childhood stick with us forever.
Prune Whip is a really old recipe, but oddly enough, I don't recall ever making it for my own kids. I'd forgotten just how good this really is. The lemon stands out and the custard is a must.


                                                                                                    My mother, daughter and I, 1977

Mother's Prune Whip



  Ingredients:
  3  egg whites

  2  tablespoons  lemon juice
  1   teaspoon  lemon rind
  1/2  cup  sugar
  3  tablespoons  prune juice
  dash salt
  1/2  cup  chopped, stewed prunes
 
  For the custard:
  3 egg yolks

  3  tablespoons  sugar
  1 1/2  cups  milk, scalded
  1   teaspoon  vanilla

Method:

Combine 3 egg whites, lemon juice, rind and 1/2  cup sugar, prune juice and salt. Place in a double boiler over simmering water and beat for 7 minutes. Remove from heat, beat in the stewed prunes and place in custard or serving dishes.

Make a custard sauce to go over it: beat 3 eggs yolks with 3 tablespoons sugar and set aside. Scald the milk, temper the eggs, and then return to the pan over medium low heat and cook slowly whisking, (do not allow to boil or it will curdle) until mixture coats the spoon. Add vanilla and pour over prune whip.



5.10.2012

Gourmet's 50 Women Game Changers in Food: # 47, Zarela Martinez


Zarela Martinez was born and raised on a cattle ranch in the Mexican border town of Agua Prieta in the Mexican state of Sonora.  Her mother, Aida Gabilondo, authored a cook book so it's no surprise Zarela learned the secrets and recipes of Mexican cooking by watching her talented mother. She graduated from El Paso’s Loretto Academy and attended finishing school in Guadalajara.
She began cooking professionally in El Paso in the late 1970's. She married, had twin boys, parented two step-kids and opened a catering business.


1983 was a big year for Zarela. An encounter with chef Paul Prudhomme (who became her mentor) while taking a cooking class in New Orleans led to her being invited to cook for an event at the renowned Tavern on the Green restaurant in New York, alongside such culinary luminaries as Alice Waters and, later, Wolfgang Puck. Then New York Times food editor Craig Claiborne published several of her recipes under the heading “Memorable Dishes from a Mexican Master Chef."  Another big break followed the same year when she was invited to cook for then U.S. President Ronald Reagan. She designed the food menu for Queen Elizabeth II at California’s Ronald Regan Ranch. That's quite a list of achievements in one year; Zarela was making a name for herself.
That same year she left the border (and her rocky marriage), loaded up the station wagon and with her twin sons, drove to New York and a dream of having her own restaurant. She once said she was so determined to make it in the Big Apple that, if need be, she would sell burritos in Central Park.


But there was no need to go that far: Zarela's reputation preceded her and she quickly made her mark as menu-designer and later executive chef for Cafe Marimba, "the first serious attempt to recreate the regional cuisine Mexican as authentic as possible in New York."  A loyal following of diners and food writers responded eagerly when she decided to start her own restaurant, Zarela, in 1987.




" I was attempting to cook contemporary interpretations of Mexican food. Then after I had traveled around Mexico extensively, I asked myself, Why reinvent? Since then I’ve dedicated myself to exposing New Yorkers to Mexico’s rich culinary heritage, and I think I’ve been successful."

In her continuing commitment to bringing regional Mexican food to New York, Zarela has launched a program for the Mexican Cultural Institute called Food is Arte with ongoing events designed to promote Mexican culture through its food and traditions from different states in Mexico. Her mission is to make her culture known and understood; Ms. Martinez has recently been named to the board of the Mexican Cultural Institute. Her website www.zarela.com is an invaluable resource for lovers of Mexican food and culture and her how-to videos on basic Mexican cooking techniques and flavor principles featured on www.youtube.com are fun and informative.


Zarela has always been dedicated to good health. She walks up and down the stairs of her home (Her home is a beautiful 4-story brown stone in midtown Manhattan and is full of Mexican and Latin American art, retablos, and talavera. She also collects cloth napkins from every city and state she visits in Mexico.) at least ten times a day plus walks everywhere as part of her health routine. Zarela also embraces a unique exercise program of pilates, martial arts and  Xi Gong yoga that strengthens mind and body. She loves to sing, dance, entertain and has always loved to have people in her home. She cooks no matter what the mood. Doors have opened and chances have been taken and success achieved with Zarela’s robust appetite for life. 


In February of 2011, "I slowly came to the realization that I needed to close my restaurant Zarela after 23 years. But the last two years have been hell—the economy shot, rent increased to  27,000 a month, prices of goods kept  rising, customers short of money and getting there Mexican fix at taco trucks and a slew of small, inexpensive restaurants that have popped up all over the city. I started to doubt whether regional was the right food for the time." Zarela found jobs for nearly all her employees, who she considers family. As well as the economy, there were also some personal problems: Zarela had been diagnosed with Parkinson's Disease.


She now says she’s gone from being a notable food star to being the mother of rising Food Network star Aarón Sanchez. (Sanchez was born in El Paso and studied culinary arts at Johnson and Wales University before beginning his career as a chef at Patria in New York. He's the co-star of Food Network's hit series Heat Seekers and Chopped and is the chef/owner of Centrico Restaurant and Tacombi, located in New York City, as well as Mestizo Restaurant, located in Kansas City. Aarón is among the country's leading contemporary Latin Chefs.)


Zarela downplays her health concerns, because she hasn’t let them stop her. She has a larger-than-life personality matched with uncanny business savvy, and is tenacious to the core. She came to New York as a single mother with just enough money for the down payment on an apartment, and reinvented herself as a Latina culinary trendsetter. She says she will continue catering, teaching, making presentations and public speaking. "I always tell women to have other options in case they lose their job and I practice what I preach. I have been lucky to make my career as chef, consultant, and businesswoman an never-ending source of joy and fulfillment.”


Zarela Martinez Cook Books:

Food from My Heart – Published in 1992, the book was nominated the James Beard Foundation as the best book of the year.
The Food and Life of Oxaca – This cook book was published in 1997 and got positive reviews for fabulous Zarela Martinez recipes.
Zerala’s Veracruz – Published in 2001, the book was the escort to the PBS series ‘Zarela! La Cocina Veracruzana’.
 Awards and Honors:
New York Association of restaurants has awarded Zarela Martinez for her remarkable service to food industry.
She has also been awarded for her business ventures by Hispanic magazine.
In 2006, Zarela Martinez has received "The Orgullo de la Comunidad” award along with her family for the Coalition for Hispanic family.

                                                                                   **************************************


For Zarela Martinez, I chose to make a definitely out-of-season Pumpkin Cheesecake. :) It was part of a Mexican Thanksgiving dinner served at Zarella by she and her son, Aarón Sánchez. It was totally ambrosial. And after all the pumpkin cheesecakes I've made, I had to stop and consider why that was. Could it be the condensed milk? The results were silky smooth. The pumpkin seeds made for a good crust too. I sprinkled some toasted ones on top.
Be sure to save the recipe for next fall...it's a winner.


Pumpkin Cheesecake
Provided by: Chefs Aaron Sánchez, Zarela Martínez 
Ingredients:
For the crust:
1/2 cup pumpkin seeds, ground
1 cup graham-cracker crumbs
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon canela (Mexican cinnamon)
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons butter

For the filling:
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese
1 cup sugar
15 ounces canned pumpkin purée
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
3 whole eggs plus 1 yolk
1 cup condensed milk

For the topping:
1 pound sour cream
1/4 cup sugar

Method:
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. 
The crust: Combine pumpkin seeds, graham-cracker crumbs, spices, and sugar thoroughly in food processor and pulse; add the butter and pulse until combined. Line a 10-inch springform pan with the mixture, and bake for 12 to 15 minutes until set. Set aside to cool.

The cheesecake: Reduce oven to 300 degrees. Beat cream cheese with sugar in a mixing bowl. Stir in pumpkin purée and spices. Add the eggs and yolk one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add condensed milk, and beat until thoroughly combined. Transfer to the prepared springform pan, and bake for 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours. Allow to cool for 30 minutes. Combine sour cream and sugar thoroughly for the topping, and spread evenly over the top of the cheesecake. Bake for 15 minutes, allow to cool, then refrigerate.




Join Mary from One Perfect Bite and all the other participants in this fun series.



5.06.2012

Roasted Tomato and Brie Tartlets


While my daughter was here a few weeks ago, I made these tarts for lunch. I found the recipe on Caitlin's blog 
Roost, which I love. Her husband has Crohn’s disease so they follow a diet eliminating many major carbohydrates in addition to all sugars, processed foods, grains and starches. She uses her blog to showcase her recipes and her photography is brilliant. We don't follow a gluten free diet at my house, so I adapted the recipe a bit by making my regular pie crust (with a bit of chopped rosemary added) instead of the almond flour tart crust. You'll find the recipe for her almond-based crust at the end of the post. I also added a couple cloves of finely chopped garlic to the tomatoes before I roasted them. I used some little heirloom tomatoes I had in the fridge and we found some of the skins rather tough. You might want to skin yellow heirlooms before roasting by briefly dropping them in boiling water, but using all red grape tomatoes would probably eliminate this problem. I just liked the color combination.
Is anything more lovely than warm melting brie?


Roasted Tomato and Brie Tartlets
 

(Makes about 8)

Ingredients:

2 pints cherry tomatoes
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
a small wheel of brie cheese 
a big bunch of fresh basil, chopped
8 almond herb tartlets (I doubled the recipe below to make 8)
aged balsamic for garnish

Method:

Make the tart shell of your choice. Bake and cool.
Next pour the tomatoes onto a foil lined baking sheet, sprinkle with the chopped garlic, add salt and pepper and toss with olive oil. Roast in a 350F oven for about 20-30 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. Leave oven on.
Place two or three slices of the brie into each tart shell (the tarts should be removed from their tart pans at this point) Top with several cherry tomatoes and place each tartlet into the oven for about 5-10 minutes or until the tartlets are warm and the cheese is nice and gooey. Remove from oven. Sprinkle with chopped basil and drizzle the aged balsamic on top.



Caitlin's Rosemary Almond Tart Shell

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups blanched almond flour 
1/4 tsp salt
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1/4 cup grapeseed oil
1 tablespoon water

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F. 
In a large bowl, combine the almond flour, salt, and rosemary. Stir the wet ingredients into the almond flour mixture until thoroughly combined. Press the dough into a 9-inch tart pan or 5 mini tartlet pans (I spray my tart pans with nonstick spray to help them come out easy!!)
Bake for 15-20 minutes, until lightly brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Then place tarts (still in the pans) in the fridge for 30 minutes...getting them cold will aid in removing them from their pans.  
Remove the tarts from the fridge. Flip each one upside down, hold it in your hand and tap the bottom with a spoon or knife and the tart should slide right out. If it doesn't keep tapping and gently squeeze the tart pans. 
Once out of the pan carefully place each tart right side up on a baking sheet. Be careful these tarts are crumbly!

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